Denis Mortet - Clos-de-Vougeot 2020

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Denis Mortet Description

Historically, Charles MORTET begins in 1956 with one hectare of vines. When Denis takes over from him in 1992, the estate is made up of 4.5 hectares in the villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny and Vougeot. In 1993, Denis and Laurence, his wife, take over an estate of 4 hectares including plots of First Growth Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Village plots situated En Motrot, Au Vellé and En Champs and also a plot in Marsannay in the place named Les Longeroies. In 1997, they buy a plot situated En Combe du Dessus in Gevrey-Chambertin; in 1999, a plot of Chambertin Great Growth and in 2000. He died at the age of 51 in January 2006. Now, under son Arnaud and the watchful eye of his mother Laurence, the wines are achieving the minerality and elegance (and seemingly without sacrificing weight) that Denis sought.

Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.

But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.

In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.

Inside Burgundy: 96-98 Points

50% new wood and 50% whole bunch. This has a really fine elegant bouquet for Clos Vougeot, not the only one this year, but an outstanding example. Builds beautifully on the palate, this has really great potential. The fruit goes on and on. Such class while keeping all the structure. Not happy to have had to spit this out. Finish still with me minutes later.

Vinous: 94-96 Points

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, matured with 50% whole bunch and 20% new oak, from parcels just below Château de la Tour on more gravelly soils. This has a broody bouquet, more bashful and closed at the moment, compared to Mortet’s other cuvées. That will open in time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, quite saline with a white and black pepper on the strict but quite compelling finish. Sophisticated, but it will need time.