Arnaud Mortet - Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques 2020

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At just a shade over 9.53 hectares and with well over 30 owners, it is not really surprising that Lavaux St.Jacques, the biggest of the Gevrey 1er cru vineyards, has the widest number of possible labels – in that respect it is the Clos de Vougeot of Gevrey.

Almost full south-facing, Lavaux St.Jacques (recognised as a distinct AOC since 1936) is situated at the beginning of the valley entrance of the Combe de Lavaux from which it takes its name – high cliffs of Jurassic limestone that eventually form the bedrock of the vineyards.

Over geological time the Combe has been the exit for rain-driven erosion into the alluvial ‘flood-plain’ of Gevrey-Chambertin. It’s a relatively cool area due to the breeze that comes down the Combe, this is the same for all the vineyards of this hillside – save one that is protected by its large wall – the Clos St.Jacques. Although the direct south exposure offers some balance, it is a balance of extremes – cool night breezes and hot daytime sun. In the late 1800s Lavaux was classed as a ‘deuxième cuvée’, though at that time so was much of Mazy, Chapelle, Charmes and Ruchottes.

[Lavaux St.Jacques] The borders of Lavaux are, at the base of the hillside, the road that heads into the Hautes Côtes from which the vineyard stretches almost to the top of the hill (about 325m above sea), following the length of the wall of the Clos St.Jacques – which interestingly looks much smaller in this map from Napoleonic (1826) times. It is a steady, but far from steep climb, and the incline ensures that it is a well-drained plot. Above, it is bordered by the premier cru Estournelles (or Etournelles) St.Jacques which forms a short buffer to the trees that cap the hill, and on its other side, by the 6 hectare premier cru Clos des Varoilles monopole.

Not surprisingly, the lower part of the slope has the deeper soil so can need more care with yields, higher up the soil depth is only about 25cm in some places. Walk the perimeter of the vineyard and it is a real ‘hotch-potch’ of plots – some in depressions, some planted across the slope, others with the slope, some with grass, some without, some obviously tractor ploughed, some with dead, brown grass – obviously from the use of herbicides. One plot even has a little wind-break from a mound of earth with a tree. It generally looks much less rocky than its neighbour the Clos des Varoilles and has a darker looking soil. Towards the very top of the vineyard is one small section where the vines are planted east-west across the hill – from any direction it looks more like it’s prepared for vegetables than vines!

Arnaud Mortet Description

One of the top 1er crus in Gevrey, tucked up towards the Combe de Lavaux. / A cooler site due to the stream of fresh air flowing through by the Combe. South facing slope, directly adjacent to Clos St. Jacques / 70+ year old vines / 30% hand-cut whole cluster / Indigenous yeast / Aged 17 months in barrel (70% new) / Unfined and unfiltered

Vinous: 93-95 Points

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru contains 30% whole bunch with 50% new oak. It has a vibrant, tightly wound bouquet with wet limestone/petrichor scents complementing the shimmering black cherry and orange zest scents. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins, fine acidity, veering more towards the red fruit profile with a pinch of brown spices on the finish. Long in the mouth, very classy. (NM)

Wine Advocate: 93-95 Points

Aromas of red berries, plums, rose petals, sweet spices and forest floor introduce the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless wine that's layered and concentrated, with a vibrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. (WK)

Inside Burgundy: 93-95 Points

"Medium deep purple, one third whole bunch, but that is enough to open up the nose and make it appealing. Very stylish, good oak take up, ripe plums with a strawberry touch. Fine long finish. Tasted: December 2021."