Chateau Cheval Blanc - St Emilion 2012 (Pre-arrival)

Once upon a time, Cheval Blanc was a modest tenant farm (that nevertheless had a long winegrowing history) called Le Barrail des Cailloux. From the time the château was created in 1834 until its present-day boundaries were fixed in 1871, Cheval Blanc became a legend. Since it takes two parents to have children, it can be said that Cheval Blanc was born of the marriage between Merlot, the traditional grape variety in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, and Cabernet Franc. Helped by the fact that phylloxera spared the estate in the late 19th century, the château’s reputation grew and grew. Since 1998, Bernard Arnault and Baron Frère have perpetuated Cheval Blanc’s tradition of excellence, while introducing elegant modern influences.

The 2012 Cheval Blanc boasts stunning power and a vertical, imposing sense of structure that is quite rare in this vintage. Dark and almost brooding in style, the Cheval is a rare 2012 that absolutely demands cellaring. Smoke, tobacco, incense and dark spices open up with time, but the 2012 is a reticent, tannic wine that is only showing the barest hints of its ultimate potential. This is a magnificent showing and one of the clear highlights of the year.

A step up over the 2011, the 2012 Cheval Blanc offers a similar medium to full-bodied, elegant style yet has slightly more freshness and purity. Smoked black fruits, cassis, tobacco leaf, and sappy flower notes all emerge from this thrillingly textured, balanced, focused 2012. It opens up with time in the glass, has ripe, sweet tannins, and it’s another one of those wines that offers pleasure today yet will cruise for decades. The final blend is the usual 54% Merlot and 46% Cabernet Franc. Readers should be happy to have bottles in their cellars. Rating: 96+