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Keller is, without a doubt, the Rheinhessen’s greatest address – and one of the most beloved in all of Germany. Their fame can be traced to their culty (and sometimes wildly expensive) dry Rieslings, culled from limestone-dominated soils, which critics have compared to the great Grand Crus of Burgundy for their power and precision.
The 2021 von der Fels Riesling Trocken from Felix and Klaus-Peter Keller is superb. The bottling this year includes three casks from the Kirchspiel and Abtserde vineyards, to augment the excellent fruit from the Hubacker, and this is a very special vintage for the von der Fels in 2021. The wine tips the scales at a svelte 12.5 percent alcohol this year and offers up tart orange, green apple, a beautiful base of limestone minerality, dried flowers, wild yeasts, a touch of bee pollen, lemon zest and a hint of petrol in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and mineral-driven, with a superb spine of acidity, lovely depth and complexity and a long, beautifully balanced and classy finish. This is certainly approachable out of the blocks, but it is still a puppy and will be nice dividends if allowed some time alone in a cool, dark corner of the cellar.
Producer | Keller |
Country | Germany |
Region | Rheinhessen |
Varietal | Riesling |
Vintage | 2021 |
Sku | 14922 |
Size | 750ml |