Yvon Clerget - Clos de Vougeot 2018

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“I absolutely adored Clerget’s 2018s. I would go as far to say that here I found some of the finest expressions of Volnay, wines surfeit with purity, terroir expression, vibrant fruit and at times, quite ethereal levels of precision – remarkable given the type of growing season. Some of the cuvées are very limited in production, down to a barrel in a couple of cases, but do whatever you can to get hold of one. Who’s to bet against Yves Clerget’s name ranking alongside the likes of Lafarge in the future? Maybe it already does.”

-Neil Martin, Vinous

Thibaud Clerget is the 28th generation of his family to make wines in Volnay and Pommard. No, that is not a typo; the Clerget family has been in Burgundy since 1268! The story of Domaine Yvon Clerget is one of rebirth. In 2009, Thibaud’s father Yvon decided to retire from winemaking. Knowing his son had an intense passion to continue the family legacy, he made the decision to sell the grapes from the family holdings in the finest terroirs of Volnay and Pommard to Henri Boillot. During this time, Thibaud began studying the craft of vineyard management and winemaking from two storied names in Burgundy, Henri Boillot and Domaine Hudelot-Noellat. After this three year apprenticeship, Thibaud returned to take over the family domaine. In 2015 he produced his first wines and announced the re-emergence of Domaine Yvon Clerget. Quality of this kind from an inaugural release is incredibly rare and it is clear to all that have followed the rise of Thibaud Clerget, that benchmark status is imminent.

Yvon Clerget Description

Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.

But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.

In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.

Inside Burgundy: 93-96 Points

From the Grand Maupertui sector, 50% whole bunch, 50% new wood. Certainly this is a very powerful wine with the fruit weight standing out more than the whole bunch effect. Brilliant purple black colour. Loads of energy here, this is a broad-shouldered Clos which, as is typical, doesn’t show the nuances at this point but certainly seems to have the class for long term ageing. Very good! - Jasper Morris