William Fèvre - Chablis Bougros 2021

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A View from the Cellar: 95 Points

It is always enjoyable to compare and contrast the Bougros and the Côte des Bouguerots (from the lower, steepest section of the vineyard) in the Fèvre cellars, to see how the two have fared in a respective vintage. In 2021, both are outstanding. This is a beautiful bottle of wine in the making, basking in the inherent elegance of the vintage as it wafts from the glass in a blend of pear, apple, chalky soil tones, beeswax, orange blossoms and lime zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and racy, with beautiful depth at the core, lovely transparency and grip, bouncy acids and a long, precise and perfectly balanced finish. Bougros can sometimes be a bit plump in hotter vintages, but the cool 2021 growing season has fashioned a gem here at Domaine Fèvre. - John Gilman

Tim Atkin: 94 Points

Here Fèvre has six hectares of which four are on the plateau. The vines average over 60 years of age, all planted by William's father. The nose is distinguished and delicate with pronounced grapefruit, star fruit and yellow currants accompanied by spice drawer accents. As the finish lingers, it becomes more notably chalky.

Wine Advocate: 94 Points

The 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is one of the richer, more gourmand wines in the range, revealing aromas of peach, orange, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's a broad, mouth-filling Chablis with bright acids and a precise, saline finish. This has turned out especially well. The 2020 vintage marked the first year of official organic conversion for 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 15th year the estate has been practicing organic, so the team took the challenges of the 2021 vintage in their stride. When I asked Didier Séguier how he managed to farm such a large estate this way, when so many smaller producers balk at the challenge, he explained that part of the secret has been fully engaging the Fèvre team: everyone is trained to spot signs of mildew and disease and share them on a team WhatsApp group; there are even prizes for the most vigilant employees. The approach certainly seems to have paid off in 2021, in any case, delivering wines with an old-school aesthetic but contemporary precision and charm; and the fact that they are bottled under Diam means that their gracious evolution in the cellar is assured. While the 2021s can't quite match the sheer concentration and intensity of 2019 and 2020, their classical profiles and clear differentiation by site will delight Chablis purists. - William Kelley