Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt - Riesling Spatlese Brauneberger Juffer 2018
Vinous: 91 Points
Really ripe Golden Delicious apple, Persian melon and banana on the nose are mingled with nut pastes on a glossy, subtly creamy palate. The soothingly sustained finish is seductive in its sheer fruitiness, to which is added a hint of almond paste, all of this well supported by modest sweetness from 57 grams of residual sugar – a modesty that also permits some genuine refreshment as well a revelation of stony underpinnings. Among overtly sweet Kesselstatt 2018s, this is the most striking example of Mertes determination to let alcohol rise so as to moderate residual sugar, especially in a low-acid vintage, because here we have 10% alcohol. Unsurprisingly, no price is paid in terms of levity – a Riesling of 10% alcohol is still eminently buoyant – so what’s the downside? And why don’t more vintners follow Mertes’ lead – in general, and not just in low-acid vintages? Why do contemporary Spätlesen have to taste so very sweet? “I guess that makes them more impressive to professional tasters,” volunteered Mertes sagely, “but I think that’s also the reason that so little Spätlese actually gets drunk,” which he and I both think is a problem and a real shame. (Drink between 2020-2035)
Price: $33.99
In Mixed Case: $28.89
Quantity Available: 29
