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In the glass it has a ruby red color with garnet hues. The bouquet expresses balsamic notes of alpine herbs, bitter orange aroma, small red berries, hints of graphite and spices. The sip is flowing, austere and deep, with dense but subtle tannins, a fresh and mineral finish.
Since 1906, the Nervi estate has been a star of the Alto Piemonte's town of Gattinara, which almost certainly produces the greatest examples of Nebbiolo outside of Barolo and Barbaresco. It was recently purchased by Barolo royalty, Roberto Conterno and now exists under the combined name of Nervi Conterno, which it now produces wine under. The vineyards are Grand Cru in status, south facing, receiving the best sun and producing powerful fruit from volcanic laced soils.
The 2018 Gattinara Valferana is explosive right out of the glass. Supporting veins of tannin carry a core of red fruit, cinnamon, rose petal, blood orange, mint and white pepper. The Valferana is complex and wonderfully deep from start to finish. Valferana is the cooler of the two single vineyard Gattinaras that are bottled separately here. The 2018 is a special wine.
As all Nebbiolo lovers know well, this mighty Piedmont grape is especially sensitive to place. That's the main takeaway with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Valferana. This is a west-facing vineyard at 300 to 350 meters in altitude that is characterized by volcanic soils and slightly cooler conditions, resulting in an etched and very focused expression of Nebbiolo (as opposed to Molsino that tends to be open-knit and more concentrated). Valferana is tightly chiseled and crisp, with blue flower, sour cherry, tobacco smoke, underbrush and candied orange peel. The wine offers a complete picture of the grape from Gattinara with some extra tannic edge to carry it through the years.
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