Le Chiuse - Brunello di Montalcino 2017

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Wine Enthusiast: 97 Points

One of the best wines of the vintage, this stunner opens with compelling aromas of new leather, forest floor, perfumed berry and menthol. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the delicious palate delivers crushed raspberry, ripe Marasca cherry, baking spice and licorice set against firm, refined tannins. It boasts remarkable freshness and balance for the hot vintage. Best After 2025

Decanter: 95 Points

Lorenzo Magnelli opted to pick early to avoid opulence in 2017. Along with gentler punch-downs and fewer pump-overs, he aged the wine for less time in wood – 30 months rather than 36 – as he felt it didn’t need too much oxygen. Vibrancy of expression is palpable in the tangle of spices, woodland berries, earthy mushroom and forest growth. The palate is sturdy but not aggressive as well-composed tannins sweep across the palate. Perhaps all that's missing in the 2017 is the extra detail and length of some of the previous vintages.

Wine Advocate: 95 Points

The Le Chiuse 2017 Brunello di Montalcino (made with certified organic fruit) exhibits a silky and elegant profile that only a handful of estates in the appellation achieve with consistency. This is the desired direction of Brunello as a whole I believe, and it's nice to see these successful results in a difficult, hot vintage such as 2017. The wine is silky and glossy on the palate with wildflowers, berry and forest floor. Production is 15,500 bottles.

One of my favorite wines in this report is the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Diecianni from Le Chiuse. Starting with the 2010 vintage, this estate has been holding back a small part of their production to release 10 years after the harvest. I wish more producers in Montalcino would commit to similar late-release programs. Lorenzo Magnelli and his team are biodynamic farmers, and the winery has been organic for 15 years.