Giacomo Fenocchio - Barolo Villero 2018

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Giacomo Fenocchio Description

Five generations of Fenocchios have been producing wine from their holdings in Monforte d’Alba since 1894. Most of the production was sold locally up until 1964, when the ambitious and energetic Giacomo Fenocchio took over the estate. In his quest to make the finest wines in all of Barolo, he purchased prime parcels in Cannubi and nearby Castellero, but his focus was always on what he liked to call the heart of the Barolo area, the Bussia.

In April of 1989, Giacomo passed away, leaving his young son Claudio to take over all farming and winemaking duties for the estate. As Claudio explains it, it was a challenging time for Barolo. Many producers were pushing a “new way” to make Barolo, and having great commercial success; but Claudio never strayed from the path of tradition. He continued producing his wines with the time honored techniques of the classic style: organic farming, with long fermentations on the skins and aging only in large Slavonian oak casks. Today Claudio’s wines exhibit a level of terroir clarity that is only found in the top echelon of producers. If you’re looking for the next star winemaker in Italy, look no further. In October of 2014, The New York Times rated Fenocchio in second position in a tasting of 2010 Barolos – coming behind only Elio Altare and ahead of Elio Grasso, Massolino, and Vietti. Claudio now manages 14 hectares of vineyards in Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and of course, the Bussia of Monforte. Total average annual production is about 8,000 cases.

With prices that frankly do not come close to approximating the astronomical quality of the wines, it’s painfully obvious that Fenocchio should be on the radar of Barolo lovers everywhere.

Decanter: 94 Points

Giacomo Fenocchio ferments his wines using their own natural yeasts, with long maceration and ageing in large Slavonian oak casks for 30 months. Villero, based on sandstone like Rocche di Castiglione or Monprivato, is more generous than the latter two MGAs due to its southwest exposition. Bright garnet in the glass, its intense framboise sauvage aroma allied to leafy lightness and earthy depth of minerality shine. Dried cherry and tar emerge with time: a classic Barolo definition. The attack is relaxing and dense with lots of sucrosity. Firm, dusty tannins, large and ripe, are accompanied by crisp acidity and great length.

Vinous: 94 Points

The 2018 Barolo Villero is gorgeous. It captures the intensity of this site married to a super-classic expression of Nebbiolo. Sage, menthol, licorice, spice, tobacco and incense are woven throughout a core of dark red/bluish fruit. There’s plenty of depth here, the tannins just need time to soften a bit.