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First mentioned by name in 1499, the history of the Kahlenberg vineyard is a long and venerable one. It has served for generations as the reference site for the former Royal Prussian Institute of Pomology and Viticulture when making official recommendations to winegrowers in our region. The slope faces due south, with Riesling vines growing here in a bed of gravelly loam soil that gives their wines an oft-noted spicy character.
The 2017 Kahlenberg Trocken comes in at 12.5 percent alcohol and three grams per liter of residual sugar in this vintage and is a beautifully balanced, elegant example of the vintage that will age long and gracefully. As Helmut Dönnhoff notes, “the Kahlenberg is a warmer vineyard and we are now picking it a bit earlier to get this raciness.” The bouquet wafts from the glass in nascently complex blend of blood orange, grapefruit, wild yeasts, complex minerality, citrus peel and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is crisp, fullish and complex, with a fine core, excellent, seamless balance, ripe acids and superb focus and grip on the long and vibrant finish. This will need at least a couple of years in the cellar to start to blossom from behind its suave structural elements, but will drink well from that point on for several decades.
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