Denis Mortet - Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques 2020 (1.5L)

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At just a shade over 9.53 hectares and with well over 30 owners, it is not really surprising that Lavaux St.Jacques, the biggest of the Gevrey 1er cru vineyards, has the widest number of possible labels – in that respect it is the Clos de Vougeot of Gevrey.

Almost full south-facing, Lavaux St.Jacques (recognised as a distinct AOC since 1936) is situated at the beginning of the valley entrance of the Combe de Lavaux from which it takes its name – high cliffs of Jurassic limestone that eventually form the bedrock of the vineyards.

Over geological time the Combe has been the exit for rain-driven erosion into the alluvial ‘flood-plain’ of Gevrey-Chambertin. It’s a relatively cool area due to the breeze that comes down the Combe, this is the same for all the vineyards of this hillside – save one that is protected by its large wall – the Clos St.Jacques. Although the direct south exposure offers some balance, it is a balance of extremes – cool night breezes and hot daytime sun. In the late 1800s Lavaux was classed as a ‘deuxième cuvée’, though at that time so was much of Mazy, Chapelle, Charmes and Ruchottes.

[Lavaux St.Jacques] The borders of Lavaux are, at the base of the hillside, the road that heads into the Hautes Côtes from which the vineyard stretches almost to the top of the hill (about 325m above sea), following the length of the wall of the Clos St.Jacques – which interestingly looks much smaller in this map from Napoleonic (1826) times. It is a steady, but far from steep climb, and the incline ensures that it is a well-drained plot. Above, it is bordered by the premier cru Estournelles (or Etournelles) St.Jacques which forms a short buffer to the trees that cap the hill, and on its other side, by the 6 hectare premier cru Clos des Varoilles monopole.

Not surprisingly, the lower part of the slope has the deeper soil so can need more care with yields, higher up the soil depth is only about 25cm in some places. Walk the perimeter of the vineyard and it is a real ‘hotch-potch’ of plots – some in depressions, some planted across the slope, others with the slope, some with grass, some without, some obviously tractor ploughed, some with dead, brown grass – obviously from the use of herbicides. One plot even has a little wind-break from a mound of earth with a tree. It generally looks much less rocky than its neighbour the Clos des Varoilles and has a darker looking soil. Towards the very top of the vineyard is one small section where the vines are planted east-west across the hill – from any direction it looks more like it’s prepared for vegetables than vines!

Denis Mortet Description

Historically, Charles MORTET begins in 1956 with one hectare of vines. When Denis takes over from him in 1992, the estate is made up of 4.5 hectares in the villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny and Vougeot. In 1993, Denis and Laurence, his wife, take over an estate of 4 hectares including plots of First Growth Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Village plots situated En Motrot, Au Vellé and En Champs and also a plot in Marsannay in the place named Les Longeroies. In 1997, they buy a plot situated En Combe du Dessus in Gevrey-Chambertin; in 1999, a plot of Chambertin Great Growth and in 2000. He died at the age of 51 in January 2006. Now, under son Arnaud and the watchful eye of his mother Laurence, the wines are achieving the minerality and elegance (and seemingly without sacrificing weight) that Denis sought.

Vinous: 93-95 Points

Wine Advocate: 93-95 Points

Aromas of red berries, plums, rose petals, sweet spices and forest floor introduce the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless wine that's layered and concentrated, with a vibrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish.