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“The 2017 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Aurum is from the very best part of the vineyard and opens with a highly delicate, pure, fresh and precise bouquet of bright and flinty/smoky Riesling and mirabelle aromas intermixed with crunchy slate notes. On the palate, it is rich, lush, refined and persistent, with power, concentration and a very long, salty-fresh finish. This is a fabulous and structured wine with discreet astringency on the finish and exciting finesse. It's a dense and persistent Riesling with power and concentration.” Stephan Rheinhardt
Cooling green herbal as well as bittersweet floral notes of mint, anise, iris and narcissus run from the nose through to the finish of this bottling, which also reveals a more pronounced fruit character – specifically of pear and apple – than did its 2016 counterpart. But it also exhibits compactness, pith and sharp edges typical of wines of vintage 2017, culminating in a gripping, though thankfully also refreshing finish transparent to alkaline and stony underpinnings. (For background on Vollenweider’s “Aurum,” consult my review of its inaugural, vintage 2016 rendition, which is reviewed in this same report.) (Drink between 2019-2027)
Producer | Daniel Vollenweider |
Country | Germany |
Region | Mosel |
Varietal | Riesling |
Vintage | 2017 |
Sku | 01329 |
Size | 750ml |